Photo Walks Today

Here in the Puget Sound we’ve been snowed in for weeks! All that wonderful white stuff is a refreshing break from out normal gray skies and it’s natural to want to capture your yard, loved ones, pets and Christmas lights.

The problem is, your camera’s job is to make everything a ‘netural gray’ color. This setting works perfect for most everything you take pictures of, except… snow.

Here’s a couple tips to help you turn those dark muddy photos into bright white snow pictures.

First - don’t trust your camera’s automatic settings.

palm trees in the snow

snow photos with and without flash

    We’ve had so much interest in a Photo Editing Class that Dany Byrne and I will be teaching an online series on PhotoShop Elements.

  This online class covers the basics of PhotoShop Elements. We’ll help you get the most out of your camera and produce award winning pictures that you’ll be proud to share!

  This course will meet three times - January 10, 17 and 24th from 2:00 -3:30 pm Pacific Time. 

  We’ll take you through, step-by-step the basic tools provided in PhotoShop Elements. The modules are designed to show you how to use the tools, allow you a week to get familiar with them, and then we’ll move on to the next level.

 For more information or to register - click the button below

Hi All,

I going to create a tutorial on preparing A Photo Book On Photoshop Elements 6

But, before I go about creating the perfect “how to” on creating a Photo Book using Elements, I would love your feedback.

So, please use the comments below to tell me any or all of the following. The more information I have from you the better I can answer your questions about using Elements to create your next work of art.

1. Would you prefer a written tutorial or a video?
2. What is your goal for the photo book? Is it to sell or share or is it a gift to family and friends
3. Do you want to print the book out on your own printer or are you going to use an online service?
4. How many photos do you think you’ll include in the book?
5. Anything specific you’d like to learn about creating the photo book?

Thanks! I look forward to helping you with your photobook project.

Learn PhotoShop Elements at home

We’ve had so much interest in a Photo Editing Class that Dany Byrne and I will be teaching an online series on PhotoShop Elements.

We’re just not sure which version of Elements would be most beneficial to you. Would you mind taking a five minute survey and let us know? Click Here to take survey .

There will be three tracks to choose: Basic, Intermediate, Advanced. These classes will meet weekly and we will teach them in order if you want to talk all three courses. Watch this newsletter for details.

Dates to be announced - but if you’d like to be the first to know, please send me an email

In part one and two we talked about the camera, and what you can do while shooting to prevent noise. However, there are times that noise will appear on the final image. All is not lost! With today’s sophisticated software digital camera noise can be removed during post production.

Depending on which software suite you have, you may not need to purchase more.

Of course, if you are a professional photographer I’m sure you have the latest version of Adobe Photoshop if not (CS4 is due out soon). Look under filters for the noise removal tab.

For those serious shutterbugs, who haven’t forked over $700. + for the full Photoshop, don’t despair. Adobe Photoshop Elements 7 has the noise canceling filter as well. Look under filters and you’ll find the noise adjustment. I’ve used the filter adjustment, but don’t like it as much as I do the software called Noise Ninja.

Noise Ninja can be used as a stand alone application or you can install it as a plug in for Photoshop. It even has some preset profiles for individual cameras used at various ISO’s. Making the whole process painless.

It takes a few extra steps to use the software as a stand alone application. I prefer it that way, it takes extra time, but helps me focus on what I’m doing. I prepare the image and convert it to JPEG. Then, before sharpening, I take it to Noise Ninja for removal. One thing I don’t want is to sharpen the noise - LOL.

There are other noise removing software packages out there as well. You may find you prefer one over the other. Truthfully, I haven’t tried them. I like N.N. and haven’t explored more. That said, here’s a short list of others I’ve heard that are rated well by users:

• ABSoft Neat Image
  www.neatimage.com
• NoiseWare Pro
  http://www.imagenomic.com/
• ISO DeNoise Filter
  http://www.digitalsecrets.net/secrets/denoiseISO.html
• Alien Skin Image Doctor (more than just noise removal)
  http://www.alienskin.com/imagedoctor/index.aspx

If you have a favorite noise removing tool, please post a link and a comment.

There are a few techniques photographers use to reduce camera noise.

1.  ISO - on all digital cameras there is an ISO setting which tells the camera how sensitive to light it must be. The lower numbers, like ISO 100 or 200 indicate that you are taking the photo in a bright, well lit area. Examples: A sunny day at the ball game, a bright overcast day during the fall or summer or standing on a theatre stage.  When you are faced with lower light situations - the night ball game, or fast moving action like winter soccer games you can change the ISO to a higher number. Like 400, 800, 1200 and depending on the camera maybe higher. This gives you the ability to capture the action, but the trade-off is a very noisy image.
2. Exposure time - Another time your camera will produce noisy image happens when you push your exposure times. An example might be an after sunset shot, where the exposure time may be 15 to 30 seconds. I’ve found my camera produces noisier shots the longer the shutter is left open. It might be better to trade a little depth of field and open the lens up to a larger F/stop and shorten the exposure time.
3. Noise reduction setting when you extend the ISO and exposure times many digital cameras have a noise reduction setting inside the menu command. Be sure to toggle it on before the shot. Turn it off for other shots. I’ve heard many cameras produce very noisy looking photos if the setting is left on under normal conditions.
4. Don’t push your camera optics you should avoid shooting with your zoom extended to the maximum. Especially if you didn’t pay for the top of the line lens. My 75-300mm zoom telephoto lens starts degrading and producing ‘noisey’ looking photos at around 200mm. I can get the shot, but lose the sharp detail. Try using your sneaker zoom to move closer if detail matters.
5. Watch the light angles - shooting into the light is much more likely to produce a poor image, but with a digital you are even more likely to get a grainy looking ‘pushed’ look. Can you aide the exposure by using your flash in this case?
6. Buy the best camera you can afford - larger sensors, better glass optics and engineering helps produce the sharpest photo possible. If you plan on selling your photos, or want high quality enlargements you’ll be much happier spending the time and money on a higher end digital SLR. There are many Prosumer digital cameras out there. Don’t mistake their design for quality. The lower priced digital SLR camera generally have smaller sensors. While the sensors are bigger than their point and shoot brothers, they may still not be big enough to produce a noise free image.

All is not lost if you have a camera that produces noisy or grainy images. In the next post I’ll talk about how to reduce noise in post processing. (When you are editing it in your computer software).

I hate camera noise. While it’s not a problem with small, low resolution photos shared on the web, it can be a big problem when you enlarge the photo and print it out.

What is noise? It’s those color speckles (that looks like grains of sand) that show up in skies or light spots in your photos.

A sample of what camera noise looks like

What causes noise? Noise is caused when the image is recorded on the sensor of a digital camera.

There are several causes for noise, including what type of camera (sensor) you have. Generally, the higher end Digital SLR cameras produce less noise because they use the higher quality and larger sensors.

 While a number of factors that cause noise are  within the photographers control, others not.
For instance heat generated ‘free electrons’ from the sensor itself can cause noise. And, again the type of digital camera you have.

Ways to control noise is my mission these days - especially after the weekend shot that created a bunch of useless photos!

Over the next few posts I’m going cover a few techniques I’ve learned for controlling noise.

This is important for a couple of reasons - one is simply to get the sharpest, best looking enlargement for you favorite subject. Another reason to control noise is producing high quality images that I can submit to iStock or shutterstock or sell at one of the other microstock agencies.

Tomorrow I’ll cover a few simple techniques to keep noise at a minimum

Sara is a great speaker but this photo is too noisy to use

I just returned from a weekend conference. I took my camera along in the hopes of getting a few photos I might be able to sell as micro-stock.

One of the problems we face as photographers when shooting seminars is low light. To add to the challenge are speakers who move. To prevent this a photographer has a choice, set your camera on a fast ISO to make the camera more sensitive to light - and allow faster shutter speeds to keep the subject from being blurry - or to use a flash with a lower ISO. The trade-off when using a flash is that it is very disruptive to the class and the speaker.

Well, I decided I wanted the best photos possible, so I choose to use a flash. I carefully asked attendees, speakers and the organizer if they minded and everyone agreed.

Just before the event started I wanted to grab a quick shot of a group in a lower light situation, so changed my ISO to 800. That allowed me to capture the shot, keep the subject in focus and not use a tripod. The trade-off, I knew would be a very noisy photo. I knew it, but felt it was OK because the shot was going to be for web use, but not for printing.

Then I got to talking to conference attendees, and a number of other things tugged at my attention - and, you guessed it, I forgot to change the ISO back. The results? Mostly good photos, fine for web use, but not very professional looking - and definitely not usable for selling. Drat! Conference photographs are very good sellers on the micro-stock circuit.

The lesson - learn your camera. When you are photographing in a professional capacity - well, just do one thing at a time - remember your purpose, that’s to take pictures. Once you have a few good photos put the camera away and then start enjoying the seminar.

I just read a few great tips from PopPhoto blog - thought I’d pass them along:

Dog Photos Done Right
Follow these tips and your pooch just may become a photographer’s best friend
Use a higher shutter speed and higher ISO when photographing a black dog indoors. Consider using an additional light source or a fill-flash to enhance the details in the dog’s face.

• Front steps provide a clean, textured background for your portrait.

• Placing small dogs up on a bench provides you greater control over your subject and allows you to be eye-level with the dog. The bench also provides a textured background for your pictures.

• To get the classic dog-head tilt, play a musical instrument such as a harmonica, or make a high-pitched sound.

• Profiles make dogs look more serious, so you should determine whether that keeps with your subject’s personality.

Adapted from PhoDOGraphy
How to Get Great Pictures of Your Dog by Kim Levin. (amphoto books,2008;$18)

Shadow And Rascal Running

Would You Like To Capture The Fun Of A Visit To An Off-Leash Dog Park?

   Getting those action shots requires a little planning and a little luck.

   I love taking my camera with me when I walk my three girls in the park. They run, jump, romp and swim at full speed. I wish I had their full-out-joy-of-life! A trip to the dog park lifts my spirit as much as it does theirs. Getting a good shot, that expresses the fun - isn’t as easy. When it comes to capturing those displays of athleticism you’ll need to plan ahead.

  There are a few things I’ve learned as I’ve filled countless compact flash cards with blurry, out of focus and  missed photos of the pups. I thought I’d share what I know. And ask, if you have any tips to share, please comment below.

Set the camera to a higher ISO (around 800)

   You’ll have to sacrifice a little noise for a faster shutter speed. To get that speed you’ll need to bump up the ISO rating. I’ve found the best settings to be around 800 ISO on a sunny day and 1600 on an overcast day.

Dobie with a blue ball

Don’t monkey around with settings while the action goes by….

  Set your camera on P (or program mode) and let your camera make the exposure decisions for you. If your camera allows (most DSLR’s will) you can choose the shutter speed while in program mode. I usually choose the fastest shutter speed available and let depth of field go. I look at it quickly when we get to the park and let the camera decide from there. If you choose shutter priority, aim for a shutter speed of 1/250 second or faster. If you can not acheive that speed, scarfice the polarizer filter, which should give you another stop or two in speed. Anything below 1/250 is dicey for action shots.

Use the auto focus or manual focus?

  If you have a small, point and shoot camera, this one won’t matter to you. Your camera will focus for you. It’s the DSLR owners who have to choose which setting to use. I use auto focus, mainly because my hands are full, and I’ve forgotten my glasses. With all the commotion arriving at the dog park entails it’s hard to remember that I can’t see anymore - LOL.

   We once had someone ask us if we were from the dog pound, another time we were asked if we were dog walkers. When we pull into the parking lot it sounds like we have more that three dogs in the truck. The truck rocks and shakes as the girls jump and bark to get out. I haven’t tried using manual focus yet. It takes extra time to focus the lens in manual, but on an overcast day the auto focus can be slow too. That has ment the one that got away several times. I’m not sure there’s a good solution - best thing to do is preplann shots as much as possible (anticipate your dogs moves).

Shadow Catches A Ball

Use the camera’s on board flash to help freeze action

  Fast moving dogs can be frozen with the help of your on board flash. You could take a speed light flash with you for your DSLR. I don’t because it’s an extra burden to carry along with bags and leashes. If I have to run off after the dogs the extra equipment is in the way.  

  In the photo on the right I used a flash to help freeze the action as Shadow grabs the ball out of midair.

   A flash also helps when the sun is behind your dog and not you. It always seems the best shots are when the light is the worst. Even on a bright sunny day you can pull a dog expression out of the shadows with your flash.

  Just remember, your flash isn’t very strong. You’ll need to be fairly close to take advantage of the freezing power of the flash. Normally the on-camera flash won’t be effective beyond about 6 to 8 feet.

Using A Flash Helped Bring Out Shadow While Putting A Catch Lite In Rascals Eyes

Another consideration when using your flash is your camera’s recycle time. When you use the flash it takes a few seconds for your camera to write to the card and prepare for the next shot. That can be a disadvantage when trying to capture a sequence.

Choose wisely; do you want that telephoto zoom hanging around your neck while chasing your dog?

Use the kit lens, or a 20mm to 80mm zoom lens. They are generally faster (meaning that they have the ability to open up to let more light in, so you can use them in lower light conditions or when shooting action). These lenses will make you get closer to the dogs, but you’re going to anyhow if you use a flash. Telephoto lenses are next to impossible to hand hold and get a sharp picture. The smallest movemeant on the photographers part and you’ll end up with a fuzzy photo. Of course, image stabilized lenses go a long way to correct this, if you can afford them…..

Leave the tripod at home - hope for the best

   It pains me to say it, but leave the tripod at home. Even with one dog, your pup won’t stay in one place long enough to pull out a tripod. If you have an extra hand (that’s not throwing balls and holding toys) you could try a monopod.

If you can, shoot in RAW

  RAW format image processing has become so simple that there’s no reason not to. You can pull an amazing amount of information out of a badly exposued photo with RAW, or correct small expoure details that used to ruin a photo. A couple of things to note, take extra cards if shooting in RAW. The files are big, no compression. Also, the write time to the card is a little slower. That means the camera takes the photo, and there is a few second delay before you can shoot the next one. Be sure to purchase cards that are ‘fast’ to write. They’re a little more expensive, but will allow you to get ready for the next shot sooner.

Be prepared  Watch your dog as they interact with others. Follow with your eyes and have your hand on your camera. After a few visits to the park you’ll know you pup’s protocol and which dogs she’ll warm up to. Don’t forgot that interesting hello (no I’m not talking about the butt sniff here - I’m talking about the jump for joy or nose to nose sniff). If you understand how they’ll react, it’s easier to be ready with your camera when they play or do their hello dance with that special dog friend.

Have your camera pre-focused for the big splash

  Ask someone to toss the ball for your pup if you are alone. Most everyone at the dog park is friendly. Get your camera ready, pre focus and tell your new friend to toss that ball.

Show motion by panning

 This takes a little practice but will yield some fun motion shots.  One behaviour you can count on with your

Move the camera during exposure to show motion

pup is that he’ll circle you as he runs by, full throttle.  If you are lucky, he’ll miss your knees. Have your camera ready as your dog makes his circle. Then, as he comes into range press the shutter and move with him. This camera movement is called ‘panning’ and if done correctly can capture your dog in focus, and blur the background.

A few final thoughts:

  Don’t forget to bend your knees, or kneel down on the ground to be at eye level to your dog (if you don’t own a great dane). Dogs are much more interesting if you photograph them at their level, where the action is.

• Take a rain protector to keep your camera dry on wet days.
• Don’t leave camera gear in the car, just take what you need for the day - don’t bring the camera bag.
• Bring an extra card in case you fill up the first one. It’s hard to see the LCD screen on sunny days and I wait until I get home to delete blurry photos
• Turn on your camera’s rapid fire - when I see my dog Shadow jumping for a ball I point and hold my finger down on the shutter until the end of her leap. The camera fires off several and sometimes, if I’m lucky I’ll capture the jump just as she grabs the ball.

My Favorite dog off leash parks in the Puget Sound

  I’ve been to most of them. We enjoy them all, but with a pack of three some seem a little too small after the first few minutes. My two current favorites for a day trip are:

1. Double Bluff Park (Useless Bay) on Whidbey Island
2. Marymoor Park - King County

Rascal resting after a long day at Double Bluff Park