Photo Walks Today

I hate camera noise. While it’s not a problem with small, low resolution photos shared on the web, it can be a big problem when you enlarge the photo and print it out.

What is noise? It’s those color speckles (that looks like grains of sand) that show up in skies or light spots in your photos.

A sample of what camera noise looks like

What causes noise? Noise is caused when the image is recorded on the sensor of a digital camera.

There are several causes for noise, including what type of camera (sensor) you have. Generally, the higher end Digital SLR cameras produce less noise because they use the higher quality and larger sensors.

 While a number of factors that cause noise are  within the photographers control, others not.
For instance heat generated ‘free electrons’ from the sensor itself can cause noise. And, again the type of digital camera you have.

Ways to control noise is my mission these days – especially after the weekend shot that created a bunch of useless photos!

Over the next few posts I’m going cover a few techniques I’ve learned for controlling noise.

This is important for a couple of reasons – one is simply to get the sharpest, best looking enlargement for you favorite subject. Another reason to control noise is producing high quality images that I can submit to iStock or shutterstock or sell at one of the other microstock agencies.

Tomorrow I’ll cover a few simple techniques to keep noise at a minimum

Sara is a great speaker but this photo is too noisy to use

I just returned from a weekend conference. I took my camera along in the hopes of getting a few photos I might be able to sell as micro-stock.

One of the problems we face as photographers when shooting seminars is low light. To add to the challenge are speakers who move. To prevent this a photographer has a choice, set your camera on a fast ISO to make the camera more sensitive to light – and allow faster shutter speeds to keep the subject from being blurry – or to use a flash with a lower ISO. The trade-off when using a flash is that it is very disruptive to the class and the speaker.

Well, I decided I wanted the best photos possible, so I choose to use a flash. I carefully asked attendees, speakers and the organizer if they minded and everyone agreed.

Just before the event started I wanted to grab a quick shot of a group in a lower light situation, so changed my ISO to 800. That allowed me to capture the shot, keep the subject in focus and not use a tripod. The trade-off, I knew would be a very noisy photo. I knew it, but felt it was OK because the shot was going to be for web use, but not for printing.

Then I got to talking to conference attendees, and a number of other things tugged at my attention – and, you guessed it, I forgot to change the ISO back. The results? Mostly good photos, fine for web use, but not very professional looking – and definitely not usable for selling. Drat! Conference photographs are very good sellers on the micro-stock circuit.

The lesson – learn your camera. When you are photographing in a professional capacity – well, just do one thing at a time – remember your purpose, that’s to take pictures. Once you have a few good photos put the camera away and then start enjoying the seminar.

I just read a few great tips from PopPhoto blog - thought I’d pass them along:

Dog Photos Done Right
Follow these tips and your pooch just may become a photographer’s best friend
Use a higher shutter speed and higher ISO when photographing a black dog indoors. Consider using an additional light source or a fill-flash to enhance the details in the dog’s face.

• Front steps provide a clean, textured background for your portrait.

• Placing small dogs up on a bench provides you greater control over your subject and allows you to be eye-level with the dog. The bench also provides a textured background for your pictures.

• To get the classic dog-head tilt, play a musical instrument such as a harmonica, or make a high-pitched sound.

• Profiles make dogs look more serious, so you should determine whether that keeps with your subject’s personality.

Adapted from PhoDOGraphy
How to Get Great Pictures of Your Dog by Kim Levin. (amphoto books,2008;$18)

Shadow And Rascal Running

Would You Like To Capture The Fun Of A Visit To An Off-Leash Dog Park?

   Getting those action shots requires a little planning and a little luck.

   I love taking my camera with me when I walk my three girls in the park. They run, jump, romp and swim at full speed. I wish I had their full-out-joy-of-life! A trip to the dog park lifts my spirit as much as it does theirs. Getting a good shot, that expresses the fun – isn’t as easy. When it comes to capturing those displays of athleticism you’ll need to plan ahead.

  There are a few things I’ve learned as I’ve filled countless compact flash cards with blurry, out of focus and  missed photos of the pups. I thought I’d share what I know. And ask, if you have any tips to share, please comment below.

Set the camera to a higher ISO (around 800)

   You’ll have to sacrifice a little noise for a faster shutter speed. To get that speed you’ll need to bump up the ISO rating. I’ve found the best settings to be around 800 ISO on a sunny day and 1600 on an overcast day.

Dobie with a blue ball

Don’t monkey around with settings while the action goes by….

  Set your camera on P (or program mode) and let your camera make the exposure decisions for you. If your camera allows (most DSLR’s will) you can choose the shutter speed while in program mode. I usually choose the fastest shutter speed available and let depth of field go. I look at it quickly when we get to the park and let the camera decide from there. If you choose shutter priority, aim for a shutter speed of 1/250 second or faster. If you can not acheive that speed, scarfice the polarizer filter, which should give you another stop or two in speed. Anything below 1/250 is dicey for action shots.

Use the auto focus or manual focus?

  If you have a small, point and shoot camera, this one won’t matter to you. Your camera will focus for you. It’s the DSLR owners who have to choose which setting to use. I use auto focus, mainly because my hands are full, and I’ve forgotten my glasses. With all the commotion arriving at the dog park entails it’s hard to remember that I can’t see anymore – LOL.

   We once had someone ask us if we were from the dog pound, another time we were asked if we were dog walkers. When we pull into the parking lot it sounds like we have more that three dogs in the truck. The truck rocks and shakes as the girls jump and bark to get out. I haven’t tried using manual focus yet. It takes extra time to focus the lens in manual, but on an overcast day the auto focus can be slow too. That has ment the one that got away several times. I’m not sure there’s a good solution – best thing to do is preplann shots as much as possible (anticipate your dogs moves).

Shadow Catches A Ball

Use the camera’s on board flash to help freeze action

  Fast moving dogs can be frozen with the help of your on board flash. You could take a speed light flash with you for your DSLR. I don’t because it’s an extra burden to carry along with bags and leashes. If I have to run off after the dogs the extra equipment is in the way.  

  In the photo on the right I used a flash to help freeze the action as Shadow grabs the ball out of midair.

   A flash also helps when the sun is behind your dog and not you. It always seems the best shots are when the light is the worst. Even on a bright sunny day you can pull a dog expression out of the shadows with your flash.

  Just remember, your flash isn’t very strong. You’ll need to be fairly close to take advantage of the freezing power of the flash. Normally the on-camera flash won’t be effective beyond about 6 to 8 feet.

Using A Flash Helped Bring Out Shadow While Putting A Catch Lite In Rascals Eyes

Another consideration when using your flash is your camera’s recycle time. When you use the flash it takes a few seconds for your camera to write to the card and prepare for the next shot. That can be a disadvantage when trying to capture a sequence.

Choose wisely; do you want that telephoto zoom hanging around your neck while chasing your dog?

Use the kit lens, or a 20mm to 80mm zoom lens. They are generally faster (meaning that they have the ability to open up to let more light in, so you can use them in lower light conditions or when shooting action). These lenses will make you get closer to the dogs, but you’re going to anyhow if you use a flash. Telephoto lenses are next to impossible to hand hold and get a sharp picture. The smallest movemeant on the photographers part and you’ll end up with a fuzzy photo. Of course, image stabilized lenses go a long way to correct this, if you can afford them…..

Leave the tripod at home – hope for the best

   It pains me to say it, but leave the tripod at home. Even with one dog, your pup won’t stay in one place long enough to pull out a tripod. If you have an extra hand (that’s not throwing balls and holding toys) you could try a monopod.

If you can, shoot in RAW

  RAW format image processing has become so simple that there’s no reason not to. You can pull an amazing amount of information out of a badly exposued photo with RAW, or correct small expoure details that used to ruin a photo. A couple of things to note, take extra cards if shooting in RAW. The files are big, no compression. Also, the write time to the card is a little slower. That means the camera takes the photo, and there is a few second delay before you can shoot the next one. Be sure to purchase cards that are ‘fast’ to write. They’re a little more expensive, but will allow you to get ready for the next shot sooner.

Be prepared  Watch your dog as they interact with others. Follow with your eyes and have your hand on your camera. After a few visits to the park you’ll know you pup’s protocol and which dogs she’ll warm up to. Don’t forgot that interesting hello (no I’m not talking about the butt sniff here – I’m talking about the jump for joy or nose to nose sniff). If you understand how they’ll react, it’s easier to be ready with your camera when they play or do their hello dance with that special dog friend.

Have your camera pre-focused for the big splash

  Ask someone to toss the ball for your pup if you are alone. Most everyone at the dog park is friendly. Get your camera ready, pre focus and tell your new friend to toss that ball.

Show motion by panning

 This takes a little practice but will yield some fun motion shots.  One behaviour you can count on with your

Move the camera during exposure to show motion

pup is that he’ll circle you as he runs by, full throttle.  If you are lucky, he’ll miss your knees. Have your camera ready as your dog makes his circle. Then, as he comes into range press the shutter and move with him. This camera movement is called ‘panning’ and if done correctly can capture your dog in focus, and blur the background.

A few final thoughts:

  Don’t forget to bend your knees, or kneel down on the ground to be at eye level to your dog (if you don’t own a great dane). Dogs are much more interesting if you photograph them at their level, where the action is.

• Take a rain protector to keep your camera dry on wet days.
• Don’t leave camera gear in the car, just take what you need for the day – don’t bring the camera bag.
• Bring an extra card in case you fill up the first one. It’s hard to see the LCD screen on sunny days and I wait until I get home to delete blurry photos
• Turn on your camera’s rapid fire – when I see my dog Shadow jumping for a ball I point and hold my finger down on the shutter until the end of her leap. The camera fires off several and sometimes, if I’m lucky I’ll capture the jump just as she grabs the ball.

My Favorite dog off leash parks in the Puget Sound

  I’ve been to most of them. We enjoy them all, but with a pack of three some seem a little too small after the first few minutes. My two current favorites for a day trip are:

1. Double Bluff Park (Useless Bay) on Whidbey Island
2. Marymoor Park – King County

Rascal resting after a long day at Double Bluff Park

The Fireworks At Lighthouse Park Washington

We had a perfect night for a fireworks display. The sky was clear and the weather still warm. I saw a few other photographers on the scene with their tripods ready for the show.

Here are a few tips when photographing fireworks:

• Use a tripod – this is a must!
• Set your camera to manual and adjust it to bulb (the shutter stays open as long as you hold down the release).
• Use a shutter release cable (or IR shutter release) to prevent camera shake as you press and hold the shutter open
• Set your ISO speed to 100 or 200
• Use F/Stop F/11 or F/16
• Prefocus using the manual focus – auto-focus won’t work
• Experiment – take some with several bursts and some with just one
• For multi bursts cover the lens with something black between explosions to prevent over-exposure – try not to touch your camera to prevent shake
• Try for an upwind position (if the smoke surrounds you, your photos will turn out hazy).
• Use a UV filter, but remove the polarizing filter for this type of work
• Have an extra battery charged up and ready – long exposures with the shutter held open – runs down batteries quickly

Do you have a favorite tip you’d like to share, or place to photograph fireworks, please comment

It’s fun to grab your camera and start shooting when the sun comes out. However, if you’re going to photograph people, sunny days aren’t necessarily the best. There are harsh shadows that leaves your subject in dark shadow. Lens flairs are another problem.

Generally, if photographing on a sunny day, the sun should be behind the photographers back. So, before you start shooting – make sure to check the sun. If possible, ask your subject to move for a better exposed shot.

It’s overcast and rainy here in Seattle today. Last night I set my alarm clock to wake me at 5:00 am in the hopes of a nice sunrise shoot, but the gray clouds promised nothing exciting. So I decided to work instead. Just couldn’t keep my mind on work so decided to play a little with the camera and flowers in the front yard.

I did a comparison test photographing flowers using no flash (it’s a nice overcast day with lots of diffused light – perfect for capturing colorful flowers).

Then I tried with with the cameras on-board flash. It’s not very strong so I thought it would punch up the contrast a little.

Just for comparison sake I thought I’d diffuse the flash by using a flash diffuser sold at clovercityphoto.com

All three photos are unretouched (I did resize them but they not even cropped).

I can see a difference. I like the flash with diffuser. It tones down the contract just a notch witch gives the photo a more natural, even look.

The summer flowers are in full bloom here and to celebrate I thought I’d give you a few tips on photographing flowers.

• Flowers look best shot from below or at eye level. Don’t shoot down on them, that’s the view we all see.
• Whenever possible use a dark background when photographing them. Pull out a piece of dark paper and place it behind the flowers – it’ll even work if you’re shooting in nature. Use a larger lens opening or F/stop to create a shallow depth of field behind the flower.
• Flowers look stellar on overcast days! They look even better just after a rain or mist, with drops of water clinging to their petals or leaves.

Now, go out and try taking some photos!

 One of the easiest things to do to get a deep blue sky with those beautiful white clouds is to use a polarizer filter.  A polarizer fits onto the end of your lens and has an adjustable ring that allows you to change the effect of the sky and clouds. Aim your lens at the spot you want to take and move the ring until you see what you like.

To get the most polarizing effect position your camera so the sun almost directly behind it. The most effect happens at about a 90 degree angle. However, even if the sun is not in the perfect position your pictures will still benefit from the polarizing effect. Whenever I shoot outdoors on a sunny day the filter is on to maximize those intense colors.

The new digital cameras require a different kind of polarizer than the traditional film cameras. This is one item that is not transferable to digital. If you have an older polarizer from your film camera it is a linear type and what is needed for digital is the circular type polarizer. Be sure to get the correct type for the medium you are using.

Polarizer filters are designed to fit onto lens of digital SLR cameras. If you have a point and shoot camera you, unfortunately will not find a filter to fit. If that’s the case you have a couple of tricks that may work to create the same effect. 1) Try shooting through your sunglasses. If they are clean you may get the effect. 2) Use Photoshop Elements to bring out the blue sky/white clouds later.

What you need:

• Polarizer- buy the best available. Less expensive filters are not made of glass and will leave your final image less than tack sharp.